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Yarium last won the day on January 15

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About Yarium

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  1. Orks @ Arby's

    Some people have noted that there's a joke about how many fries it can carry, and that apparently back in Gorka Morka the Trukk's carrying capacity was equal to however many boys you could fit in it! On the facebook site for Arby's their tag is "I sure hope this makes it across the table!"
  2. There was recently an article posted on Bell of Lost Souls about whether or not, in game Warhammer 40k, a roll of 6 should always hit (which can be found here: http://www.belloflostsouls.net/2018/01/40k-op-ed-a-6-should-always-hit.html). Would this be a good idea? Dropping Dice responds! So, to recap for those who don't want to click the link (and given the torrent of ads on BoLS, I don't blame you), in Warhammer 40k right now there's something that's... well...it's not really a problem until it IS a problem. I'm talking about negative dice modifiers. Let's look at a totally normal situation. A unit of Ork Lootas (BS 5+) needs to move to be able to hit anything for some reason. With their Heavy Weapons, that's a -1 to hit. But oh no! They're fighting Ravenguard (or Alpha Legion, or Alaitoc), and now when they shoot, they're at an additional -1 to hit. This means that their very best roll is no longer good enough to hit their target, it is impossible for them to hit. With every way there is to take these penalties in the game, -2 is very possible when moving and shooting, or even when standing still against Alaitoc or Nurgle Daemons. -3 and even -4 is technically possible too! Yes, for some units, it would be impossible to hit. And yet... it's always possible to miss. The first time I really saw this in action and saw just how unfun it would be to play against was in this very recent game by frontline gaming: In it, Frankie and Reecius do battle between the new Daemons and a fully mekanikal Ork army. It's not a good list from Reecius, but it illustrates the point. For two turns, despite a great number of attacks, Reecius was unable to do any real damage to the Nurgle forces (always wasted a turn of fire on one thing, so had to engage a sub-optimal target, and even then was hard to get through - though that's a bit more unrelated). As the Nurgle -1 (and in many cases, -2) to being hit also applied in close combat, the Orks sometimes were entirely incapable of hitting targets. And through it, I couldn't help but feel that this isn't what GW intended. I think they intend on things being able to stack these to-hit penalties to make it very HARD to hit something, but didn't intend to make it impossible. Even in the Dark Days of 7th, with Invisibility, you still hit on 6's. I would imagine modifying this rule (4. Resolve Attacks; 1. Hit roll, pg181) to the following: Who would this benefit? Mainly; Orks. Hitting normally on 5's is rough enough as it is, and Orks will often be hitting on 6's either due to these intrinsic penalties or from moving. Having them not even have any possibility of hitting is a bit of a slap in their green faces. Being able to always hit on a 6 would just give them an out against armies that stack up tons of hit roll penalties. In very rare cases, it will also help all the 4+ to hit armies out there, but those situations are far rarer. However, we also don't yet have an Ork codex out there. It's totally possible that GW is going to give that rule specifically just to Orks, though chances are it's too late now (I wouldn't be surprised if, given GW's release schedule, the Ork codex is already being printed). Ultimately, I think this is a change that for 95% of the games being played out there would not make a difference, but would see a big difference and a far more enjoyable time for those folks that get stuck in that 5% of games that do. Happy gaming!
  3. Orks @ Arby's

    Check out this post from Arby's Facebook page! And from reddit, one user had this to say: "Looks like Arbys has released more ORK content in the last 2 years than GW" Gold!
  4. Dropping Dice Does Mega Battles

    Welcome to Dropping Dice, a blog about gaming life and having fun! What to do for a first post? That's pretty challenging... need to set the tone somehow. How about Mega Battles? Whoa boy. The type of everyone loves, but no one can figure out. Ooh wee! What is a Mega Battle? Pretty much, it's a giant-normous game of whatever tabletop wargame you enjoy playing. You take a ton of models, slam them on the table, and are often part of a team of other players doing the same thing against a bunch of opponents. It could also just be 1v1 with two huge armies. Whatever it is, it's going to be huge. "Mega" even. Playing this kind of game is an experience that you should have, at least once in your gaming life. It's truly amazing to see so many models on the table, smashing against each other in huge waves and tides, getting aid from other players or lending your aid to other players. For as great as these games can be, they have a lot of challenges. For one, these games take a long time. Even if everyone is using a force smaller than what they normally would, people tend to go as slow as the slowest player. This means you're going to want to give yourself a lot of time to do this, and everyone involved should be aware of that time. Furthermore, you can actually use a "time limit" in a way that encourages fast and reckless play, but we'll get into that in a bit. You will also need to have a clear concept for the battle. Two big forces smashing against each other is fun, but without a clearly defined concept and goal, there will be problems. The biggest problem I find that occurs during a Mega Battle is the First Turn Advantage. Normally in a tabletop wargame, going first is very useful, but not back-breaking. This is because, while a good start is important, the size of the game gets players to really focus how powerful their lists are going to be, and so both sides are often of similar strength simply because players will have discussed things ahead of time. In a Mega Battle, you are encouraged to bring so much stuff that you will often be bringing some of your most powerful toys. This is a good thing, as this is the setting where you want to have these things! However, gamers being gamers, we will try to maximize their use and effect. What often occurs then is that two forces fighting against each other will often be woefully one-sided in terms of power, and even if they are not, the total damage that one side will do to the other in a single turn can often feel insurmountable for the opposing team. If you fail to deal enough damage to the opposing team on your first turn (even going first), the other team's damage is likely to be completely crippling in return. In other words, in most Mega Battles I've participated in, it feels like the battle is effectively determined after both sides have had Turn 1. For example, recently I played a mega battle against a friend; 40k, 5000 points each. He had a Thunderhawk, which eats up a massive amount of points, but can deal a massive amount of firepower. Despite getting the first turn, and the explosion caused by that model's death, once I destroyed it (turn 1), I had dealt so much damage to him that it was a nearly impossible turn 2 for him, and by the end of turn 3 he had almost nothing left. This, or something very similar to it, has been the case in every single "two sides smash" mega battle that I have ever been a part of. You need to have a way around this. Here are some of my tips: #1 - Have a "Game Master": You need one player who can organize this game and not play in it. Some people love this position, but they are there to make sure everyone else is having a good time, mediate disputes, keep people on track and on time, and make sure everyone is fed and hydrated. Really, having this type of person is so incredibly important, as they really do make the Mega Battle experience so much better for everyone involved! Always thank your Game Master. #2 - Multiple Boards, Interacting With Each Other: Instead of having just one board that you smash against each other on, have multiple different boards, each with a different objective or something that lets the players on that board do something. You can also do the same thing with truly MASSIVE boards. For example, perhaps there's a location that, if you control it, allows your team to start bringing in reinforcements that are normally automatically available. You are able to perform a ritual that allows you to summon forth units that normally you can just summon at any time, or you fire missiles from an orbiting space ship onto a point of the battlefield. #3 - Limit "Battlefield" Effects: You have a model that makes it so that "your opponent" suffers a penalty or "you" gain a bonus? Instead, make this so only you, and not your team, gets the bonus, and only the opponent directly across from you, or things within a regular battlefield size, suffer the penalty. A good example of this was a unit from 40k in 7th that could summon a lightning storm, which would have a 1 in 6 chance of striking each enemy unit. In a normal game, this would be fine, as it might hit 1, 2, or (if you were very lucky) 3 units. However, in a Mega Battle, with there being maybe 60 units on your opponent's team, this would suddenly hit 9, 10, or 11 units - a HUGE amount. It would also hit them even if they were tables away! The only way this kind of thing should be allowed is if there's a requirement that these players need to achieve first (see the first point about interacting tables). #4 - Different Sized Games are Okay: Oftentimes, I see people playing Mega Battles where everyone is bringing the same amount of stuff. Mega battles are actually great places to allow each player to bring and play the size of game they want. This is where having different tables that are removed from each other (or very large boards) can be very helpful! If one team starts becoming smaller than the other, give that team some additional bonuses to make up for the difference, like magical barriers, regenerating units, teleportation powers, or more! #5 - Have a Time Limit: Lastly, you want everything to be moving. Set time limits for people to do things in the game, like taking turns, or deployment. You can use these time limits as some additional "carrot and stick" behaviour patterns. Players can bid time for how long they have to deploy, with the team bidding lowest going first, but anything not deployed not being allowed to start on the board. You can issue time penalties to teams that start going over their turn's time limit, like bonuses for their opponents, or penalties on all their actions for the rest of the turn. You can also issue "time sensitive" objectives, like things that appear during one team's movement phase in a dangerous position, but with a powerful bonus if it is achieved, but with a very brief time frame to do so! Let me end this post with a description of my favourite Mega Battle I've ever been a part of. I was hosting a New Years Mega Battle in my basement about 3 years ago. It was 7th edition 40k. We had six players. One board was a Kill Team battle over an orbiting Battle Barge. Control over the Battle Barge's control room would allow that player to initiate orbital bombardments on the main table. There was a second table with a Vortex Missile Launcher, which could be fired by whomever controlled it onto the main table as well. The main table was 4000 points of Imperial Guard assaulting 2000 points of Eldar, but the Eldar had a massive Shield Generator that would take all the hits from the Guard, and allow the Eldar to fire out of at no cost. Pretty much, the idea was that the main table's Eldar needed to survive long enough to make it a fair fight, but if the Imperials on the other tables could gain control of their objectives quickly, they'd be able to drop down the shields before the Eldar could whittle down the Guard. The shield almost went down turn 1 (Despite having something like 60 hull points and Armour 14, with "Destroyed" results removing d3 additional hull points). Turn 2 it kicked in the middle of the Guard's turn. At that point, the Imperials still had more units than the Eldar, but the Eldar could at least survive. The game ended with the Eldar and Xenos victorious, but only barely! This, to me, is a great example of how different sized games and different objectives and tables can bring things together, with everyone feeling like they were a part of something truly bigger. Have fun, and happy gaming!
  5. Great blog post Kevin! There's a space for competitive gaming and winning with crazy OP lists. In fact, I think that going into an event knowing that other people there will be in that same mindset can result in a number of truly amazing games. Seeing people playing at their "A" game, and trusting that both lists are of about the same strength is a sight to behold. Having two people go at each other with "well rounded" lists, especially in unfamiliar settings like out of town tournaments where what is "well rounded" can wildly vary, can result in lists that are not at all close in power level, in which case it always leaves the doubt in your head that the person with the better list won, rather than the better person. For myself, I do prefer the well rounded list games as well, as opposed to the super high level competitive games, and I always feel that the best way to achieve that is to communicate. I also think that 8th edition does a much better job in balancing the games that the differences between you standard list and high-end list aren't quite as bad as they were back in 7th madness. I think the key to this is that 8th edition 40k has more focus on basic infantry than previously, even if that's just because it gives you access to amazing Stratagems, it still makes the battles look and feel like what I enjoy most about 40k.
  6. More Morty

    I recently completed Mortarion. Like usual, I still have some work to do on the base, but I feel like the model's complete now. So here he is! I went with trying to make the wings look like an insect's. Did layer after layer of the Technical paints, along with dots (and dots on technical on dots) of silver. The end result is very interesting, but still not 100% as good as I was hoping, but still VERY interesting and eye-catching, and gives it that insect-y look. The white armour is bleached bone (screaming skull), with skull white highlights, then covered in Carrobough Crimson shade at recessed areas, then covered all over with Seraphim Sepia shade, then drybrushed screaming skull again. The green trim was accidentally awesome. Just was the Vallejo dark green paint (watered down just a bit). I'm not a huge fan of the Vallejo paints, because they do some things you don't want (too shiny, too runny, or clogs in the bottle), but here it was fantastic, as it just fell all on its own into the right spots, meaning I literally did NOTHING ELSE to those green trims, they just were great right away. The green smoke/poison fumes were that same green, drybrushed with lighter levels of green, then doing a very sudden change to drybrushing yellow. And of course, the awesome trick for doing gold, I did brown, followed by gold, followed by Riekland Fleshshade GLOSSY (very important), followed by very light silver drybrush.
  7. Had a chance to play Forbidden Stars again last weekend, and will doing so again this weekend! For those of you who don't know, Forbidden Stars is a conquest style strategy wargame that takes part in the Warhammer 40k setting. However, it could easily be ported over to almost any setting, because while the 40k elements are a lot of FUN for those who know them, the gameplay itself is just so incredibly spot-on and generic that being 40k never really enters into it. If it wasn't for the pictures, you'd probably forget it even is 40k! The main structure of the game is actually quite simple! You build a sector in space populated by some planets. As each player puts down a square tile (2x2 for a 2 player game, 2x3 for a 3 player game, and 3x3 for a 4 player game), that player may place some of their starting units on those planets, and places objective markers that belong to his or her opponent onto those worlds. So it is that you start already neighbours with just about every player, and you start with something they desperately want! Your goal is to claim a number of objective markers equal to the number of players in the game, meaning the fighting is going to have to be fast and furious to come out ahead. Here is an image of what is honestly an actual typical game: The key mechanic in the game is the Order system. You have eight (8) order tokens to use, two (2) of each kind of order in the game. An order lets you do a certain phase of the game, and are what allow you to build new units (Build), research stronger strategies (Strategize), move and attack with your units (Advance), or extract special resources from the game board while allowing a special faction-unique ability to be used (Dominate). While you have eight of these, every round you will only get to use half of them, in any combination you wish! Additionally, you'll place these markers face-down in the sector where you want that Order to take place, meaning that your opponents won't know what it is you have planned to do! However, whenever a new Order Token is placed face-down in a system, it covers the Order Token below it, meaning that the hidden tokens can't be activated until the ones above them have been resolved. This allows you to force your opponent into sub-optimal plays, or you might make the mistake of thinking a system will be easy to attack when actually your opponent comes to that system's rescue before you even show up! There's a lot of drama in these Order tokens and in which order they resolve in. The other key part of the game is combat. There are three combat metrics, and three ways to enhance those combat metrics. The first is your attack power, or "Gunz" as we usually call them. Having a high attack power will allow you to destroy or rout enemies. The second is your defence power, or "Shields" as we call them. These prevent your units from being routed or destroyed. Lastly, there's Morale. When one side is unable to entirely destroy their opponent's forces after three rounds of combat, whomever has the most Morale wins, making this your real "army health" metric, with your Shields preventing health loss. The only metric you start a battle with is Morale, everything else will be added to your army's abilities during combat. First, you roll dice. More and Bigger units will add more dice, but you're limited to a mere EIGHT (8) dice - you're not allowed any more than that! The dice also don't just succeed or fail, but rather give you an extra random power of Gunz, Shields, or Morale, and only give it at the start of combat (though they last the whole combat). In this way, it's impossible for two equally sized and powered armies to just fold against the other due to "bad dice" - rather, these dice results will shape your strategy during the rest of the combat. The second method of gaining these metrics is your Combat Deck, a deck of 10 cards (two copies of five different cards) that you randomly draw 5 cards from after rolling your dice. These cards will have a symbol in the upper left corner that shows how many of each metric they add to. Your initial deck won't give you many of these symbols, but can be upgraded to more and more powerful cards as the game progresses. When you play a card (and each player will play 1 card each combat round for a total of 3 cards played), you gain those combat metrics for the rest of the combat! Yup, as the battle wears on, it only gets more intense, with blow-outs against your opponent aiding you in each combat round remaining in that combat. Lastly, a number of cards will let you gain additional dice or tokens (tokens only lasting that single combat round) that allow you to improve your different metrics, many times in ways that may be far more powerful than whether or not you even win this combat! I love this combat system so much, because it rewards building up your tech over the game, and combats are always interesting, even just to watch as two other players go at it. It may "pause" the rest of the game while you do this, but considering how important these combats are and the suspense involved, it's a real joy to watch. Okay, so that's the review of the main, critical, game parts. There's obviously a ton of other rules to the game, but from here in I'm going to talk some strategy. If you're going to be playing this game, here's some strategy tips! I can't guarantee that these tips are going to work against veterans of the game, but they will definitely help you through your initial matches #1 - Be, Be, Be Aggressive: Do NOT hold back in this game, unless it's for a VERY good reason! Most factions, save the Orks, have combat abilities that benefit not just that combat, but the rest of your force in the game. A good example is above with the Chaos "Dark Faith" combat card. This card doesn't give you a whole ton (a Morale symbol and a Morale die - no guns or shields at all!), but its effect is possibly more powerful than just winning or losing this entire combat! If you have more Morale dice than your opponent (much easier considering you first gain a Morale die), then you get to place a FREE Cultist in another Friendly or UNCONTROLLED world in the system! That's right! By fighting in this combat, not only did you just "build" something for free, if it went somewhere uncontrolled, it's also as if you attacked and took over a world! And this is at NO COST! Chaos is the best at this in the early game, with Dark Faith, Mark of Slaanesh (an early upgrade) and their Dominate action allowing them to rapidly expand to empty worlds. Eldar and Space Marines have some cards that allow them to retreat units in a very controlled fashion, meaning that you can use combat with these units to quickly reposition them somewhere else where they will be more effective. There are times where you might do this even if you're winning the combat, simply because of how powerful that extra unit placement is! Space Marines later in the game also get Drop Pods (a combat card earlier, and another upgrade to their Advance order later in the game) that allows them to first reposition Space Marines, and then get FREE new Space Marines while bombarding enemy worlds! Lastly, while the Orks don't get any of these "tricksy" combat cards or abilities, their combat cards are simply DEAD 'ARD instead, with a ton of Gunz and Shields that'll simply let you stomp your enemies into dust. Simply put, you're the meanest, toughest, killiest things in the game right from the start, and upgrading your deck only improves that. You should be able to take just about any world you can reach. This means that all of the factions should be aggressive, even starting Turn 1! Chaos wants to attack because it gets free units, Eldar want to attack because they can reposition elsewhere rapidly to strike where least suspected, Space Marines want to take forward positions and then bunker down, and Orks just want to attack and jump from world to world to world! If you are not being Aggressive, you must be trying to have an amazing turn where you're gaining a huge amount of Material (your "money" in the game), and just spending it to vastly upgrade and improve your army. If an opponent has a lot more wealth than you, taking turns not attacking is going to put you too far behind, as they'll be able to start teching up and building forces while still being aggressive. #2 - Upgrade Your Combat Deck Every Turn If possible, you should be upgrading your Combat deck every turn. I know you want to buy that Titan, but trust me, an upgraded combat deck is better. A single Space Marine Scout, with a fully upgraded combat deck, would easily defeat a TITAN without such an upgraded deck (though the first round of combat might be a nail-biter, depending on how the dice rolled), simply because by the end of 3 combats, your Combat Cards will matter more than your dice. To put this in perspective, let's look at a Scout vs a Cultist fight right at the start of the game, and each player draws 1 copy of each card (which is possible, if unlikely). In a fight against each other, both are rolling just 1 combat die. This means each side will get either 1 Gun, Shield, or Morale. Let's say the Space Marines get a Gun, while Chaos gets a Shield. In the first turn, Space Marines (we'll say they're attacking) play Ambush, gaining 1 Gun from the card, and choosing to gain 2 Shield tokens. The Chaos player plays Impure Zeal, gaining a Gun and Shield symbol, and a Gun token. This ends up with both sides having 2 Guns and 2 Shields, and bouncing off of each other, but next turn, the Space Marines will be starting the combat with just 2 Guns, while the Chaos forces will be starting with 1 Gun and 2 Shields, putting Chaos on the advantage! The fact that these extra combat symbols carry through from combat round to combat round means that cards with really high numbers of useful combat symbols will have a massive advantage against a deck without them come the second and third round of combat. As such, upgrading your deck every turn to make sure you don't fall behind in this regard is essential, even if it means you eventually take out your favourite starter deck card. Also, be mindful when upgrading your deck not to just go all-in on one type of combat metric. The dice rolls still factor into things, as there will be times when you don't care how many Gunz you have, you just need something to survive combat, or when your opponent and yourself are just equally matched in Guns and Shields, and you need to pull ahead in Morale to secure the victory. A varied deck with all three types of symbols is very useful. Cards with all of one symbol tend to be better near at the start of combat where you're already really ahead or behind, and better at the end of combat when you're about even and you just need to pull a bit more ahead in one aspect. Cards with a mix of symbols (like Chaos Victorious pictured above), are better at the start of combat when your two sides are about even in strength, or at the end of combat when you're already really ahead or behind. Lastly, try not to max out your dice, unless your deck doesn't add many dice, or you need lots of units there to win a morale battle. You max out at 8 and then can't gain any additional dice, meaning that cards that add dice lose a lot of their potency. If you attack with 1 fewer unit, but have a card that'll add that unit's dice in anyways, then save that unit's life and leave them behind. #3 - Spaceships are Important, But Not That Important Spaceships are great. They get a lot of high stats for low cost, but they only fight in spaceship battles or bombard enemy worlds. You need ships in these voids in order to keep your forces moving around the table. You can also use them to bombard enemies, though you'll need a big fleet for that to matter, unless you're Eldar (which can max out their rolls quickly, allowing them to more successfully bombard places than most other factions). For this reason, having a few sapceships is always a good idea. However, don't go overboard with them either! Spaceships can't take over planets, meaning you don't really gain anything when you attack somewhere with them, so they really will just be bridging the gaps between worlds and bombarding all game long. Also, your units can move directly to adjacent worlds if there's no void between them, meaning that if you build the map correctly (very useful for Orks), you'll be able to make sizeable gains even without a lot of support craft. Even still, you need ships, because sooner or later there's going to be a Void that you MUST cross. Of special note to Orks, your ships look pretty bad at first, with just 1 attack power (they only add 1 die each, as opposed to the Eldar's 3 each!), but their toughness is actually a huge boon for them. Orks tend to win combat by out-lasting their opponents and winning on Morale and combat cards. Remember to spend those Reinforcement tokens to gain HUGE pools of additional and tough Morale. Orks may look weak in space combat, but it's just an illusion, one you don't want your opponents figuring out! Again, upgrading your deck every turn will help keep space combats going surprisingly in your favour. #4 - Create a Disruption-Resistant Plan Your opponents are going to try and mess you up, and you should be trying to mess your opponents up. Being last during a turn is great, as you get to place down the last order token, potentially delaying a critical turn for your opponents. For this reason, you should also be trying to craft a plan that's resistant to your opponents doing this same thing to you. To create a resistant plan, you want to remember the following tips: i. Your opponents have a range limit to their tokens, so far away spaces are safer: You can only place an order token in a system with your units in it, or adjacent to such a system. If you're able to push your opponents out from a corner and you solely control all the adjacent systems, that system is safe from disruption. You should put your tokens in this system FIRST, and they should be the tokens you want to activate RIGHT AWAY. This will force your opponents to activate their orders before you, giving you the most amount of information when you make your other orders. ii. Place your Advance orders LAST: Your Advance orders are the most susceptible to disruption, because they'll naturally be going into territories where you want to either be attacking or sending reinforcements to. If your opponent kills one of your forces before it would be moved, or if your opponent reinforces the location you're trying to attack before you get there, you're going to effectively have wasted that order. Give you get so few orders each turn, this is a really bad thing, and you'll feel the repercussions of that mistake immediately, and the echoes of it for a long time. If you place your Advance order last, this will lessen (or negate, depending on the turn order) the chance that an opponent will bury your order under one of theirs. Even if you don't want to attack that system right away (because you want to do other things first), having the Advance token be on top means that this system should stay pretty much the same before you attack it. iii. Have a plan in mind where the order doesn't matter: Does it matter if you build first then strategize, or strategize then build, or dominate then attack? You probably want to try and maximize your turn by grabbing just enough extra stuff to make your successive actions that turn even more profitable, and while it's really useful when it works, it can become catastrophic if it gets disrupted. Say you need to Dominate somewhere to get the gears token (extra Material for purchasing units), then strategize to get an Order Upgrade, then Build (using the extra material and Order Upgrade), then attack with what was just built... This is a really strong plan. You are really getting ahead if this plan comes together. However, if any of the points in this plan get disrupted and you have to skip that step and do another step before you're ready, then your WHOLE TURN falls apart. If you have to build before you strategize, then you can't get the benefit of the order upgrade, meaning you won't have the special unit you were hoping to attack with. So, you can try to go for this really killer turn, but just know that if it goes wrong, it could go REALLY wrong. If you are just planning to build after you dominate though, and then can strategize either before or after building, and then finally attack, then there's far fewer ways that the plan can be disrupted. If you can't strategize, you can dominate, if you can't dominate, you can strategize, then hopefully the next order lets you do the other part of your plan. I hope this (blog?)post helps you in your next game of Forbidden Stars!
  8. At first I thought this would get faq'd to be "in the Fight phase", but after thinking about it, I think this is just a useful extra tool rather than an OP option. It enhances the abilities of shooty things with the Daemon and Khorne keywords, but those are few and far between and aren't crazy powerful either. As such, I have a feeling this interaction will be allowed to continue.
  9. Blog Posts & General Forum

    NVM, I found the topic in the Announcements forum under Community & News!
  10. Bug/Issue Tracking Thread

    Found this! How do you create a Blog post?
  11. Blog Posts & General Forum

    I'm trying to figure out how to create a new blog post so I can help with content. Tried making a post yesterday, and it worked fine, but doesn't show an option for the Blog section. Also, is this the right forum to discuss this? There's no General forum, just a General section. I'm assuming the Lounge is the right spot to discuss Forum issues.
  12. Have you seen the new Chaos Daemons codex for 40k or its previews? If you have, then you know that it's a good time to be a mother-fucking daemon! Daemons have had a number of issues in 8th edition, with a number of changes that really hampered them. As it is, Daemons have become something more of a support force for Chaos Soup, always giving something, but not really standing on their own. If you're looking for me to say that this all changes with the new Daemons Codex, I'm sorry to say, but you'd be mistaken. Oh, stand-alone Daemons are still DEFINITELY going to be a thing, simply because it's fun to do, but they're unlikely to make a big hit on the competitive scene. But, what if I told you that there's a new Relic that not only is very powerful, but also changes one faction from being a one-trick pony into a two-trick pony! Feast your eyes on the new Khorne Hellforged Artifact: So, upon cursory inspection, you probably are seeing something pretty similar to many other things in the game; extra attacks. You may notice one difference, but not quite it's importance. It doesn't trigger on hit-rolls, but rather on wound rolls. Also, unlikely almost everything else you've seen, you probably didn't notice that this doesn't just trigger in the Fight Phase... Yeah, it triggers EVERY TIME. Every. Single. Time. You making attacks in close combat with +1 to wound because of Veterans of the Long War? It triggers. You shooting a Lascannon from a Defiler? It triggers. You firing Overwatch? It triggers. It triggers, it triggers, it triggers! These extra attacks are made with that same weapon, so yes, if your Khorne Obliterators get a to-wound roll of 6, that's going to be an extra shot from them. Take this relic and park it near the Lord of Skulls (which can also be Deep Striked for 2 Command Points like a boss), and all of a sudden you'll be doing absolutely insane amounts of damage. So enjoy your new shooty Khorne lists! This may not be insanely good, but it's a powerful extra thing to include for something that Khorne needs to strength in anyways.
  13. Community & Why We Do It

    Awesome job guys! Really looking forward to the new site and making this an awesome place to be :-) Out of curiousity, I noticed that in the quick response there's a "Y". Is that for "Yarium"? That's pretty cool. Or I'm just lucky.